Laura Truelove joined us for the adventure to Eryri to capture the Warmth of Winter campaign. She recounts the few days exploring this wild landscape.
Poem by Alice Greenfield, voiced by Laura Truelove.
Blog post by Laura Truelove.
The slopes of Cadair Idris basking in the light at golden hour is a view I never tire of when driving north on the A487. It’s the first of many giants welcoming you into Eryri National Park. It’s not long before you’re cwtched (hugged) by the mountains.
Laura wears the Daleside Sherpa Flannel Jacket
Continue to travel further north and you’ll find the town of Blaenau Ffestiniog (or Stiniog as it’s known locally) nestled between the Moelwynion range. Now a World Heritage Site, this place was once known as Dinas y Llechi (Slate City). It bears the scars of its industrial past and present. The heaps of slate littered across the landscape were shining in the afternoon sun as we arrived at Plas Weunydd. This would be our base for the next two days.
Waking in the mountains in organic cotton pyjamas
We woke with the birds after spending the night cosied up in our glamping pods. Remarkably it wasn’t raining, which is quite uncharacteristic of Wales. Knowing all too well that our luck could turn, we took jackets in an attempt to keep up with the shifting seasons.
With hiking boots laced up, we made our way to the infamous Watkin Pools for a morning dip. Jaws dropped as we drove by Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and Crib Goch. They were barely awake, poking their heads out from under the blanket of fog. We began the short but steep climb to our swim spot, passing fluffy cows and sprightly robins.
Keeping out the chill with the Dawn Polar Fleece
Once we reached the bridge, the sun made a momentary appearance, clearing the skies. With nobody in sight, we peeled off our layers of knitwear, hurrying into our swimwear and wasting no time to take the plunge. The water was near freezing, but we welcomed in the cold. After the thrill of splashing around finally wore off, we climbed out of the pools and warmed up in our changing robes. We paused here to take in the valley, appreciating this time outdoors with new friends, as well as a hot panad! (otherwise known as a cuppa).
After filling our bellies with lunch and hufen ia (ice cream) in Beddgelert, we made the journey back to Blaenau. The sun stretched into the evening as we danced in the golden light around Llyn Barlwyd (Barlwyd Lake), dwarfed by the mountains towering above us. Once daylight disappeared, we took cover in the Shepherd’s Hut, drinking tea and playing cards in front of the log burner. Candyfloss clouds turned to twinkling starlight as these landscapes see little to no light pollution. Eryri’s dark skies really put on a show for us that evening.
It was a sleepy start to day two as we lazed around the hut in our pyjamas. I took in the slate-filled landscape out on the deck, as others played chess and drank coffee. This recharge was necessary before a more adventurous afternoon on the coast exploring the caves of Traeth Morfa Bychan. This is one of very few beaches in Wales you can drive on, so we took the truck and set up camp. Summer made one last appearance, tricking us into another dip. The sea was much warmer than yesterday’s pools. The water was calm and still as the sun set behind whispy clouds.
We made our way back for a post-dip fire, sweetened by marshmallows. Our salty hair dried quick and the feeling eventually returned to our hands as our laughs echoed through the dunes. The sand quickly froze – a reminder that winter is here. And while the embers began to fade, the warmth within us continued to thrive. This was exactly where we were meant to be.